It is our second day trekking, and I have some down time to
journal! What a wonderful time we have been having!! We woke up in
Pokhara and met our guide (Dipak) who came with us in a taxi to the town
called Nayapul. Nayapul is where we started our trek, and it is where
we will finish our trek. The 3 of us set out and made it to the town of
Tirkhedunga around noon. Our four day trek is a pretty sweet set up,
there are all these little towns set up on the hills of the Himalayas,
south of the annapurnas. We are doing a circuit with stops for meals and
sleeping at these little towns. The trekking part of it is pretty neat -
there are parts where it's more of a dirt path going up, like the hikes
we are used to at home, but even more parts where it's actual stone
steps winding up the mountain. The steps are actually the hardest, your
legs are sooo tired at the end of them! After lunch in Tirkhedunga, we
had the hardest stretch of our trek so far. 3 hours of climbing up, up,
up these stone steps, constantly. My legs felt like jello, my heart was
pounding out of my chest, and my lungs could not breathe in enough of
the thin air. The elevation climb was about 1070 m from Nayapul to 1500
meters to Tirkhedunga to 2010 at Ulleri (the next town) and I think the
elevation is what was bothering me more than the thigh burn of the
climb. I felt slightly lightheaded with a headache on that first day,
and even though there are obviously way higher points in Nepal, and we
are taking altitude sickness pills, I still think since I'm used to sea
level it was getting to me. For water, the towns have been supplying us
with boiled water, called the safe water project for Trekkers. Me being a
little paranoid, I sterilize it with the steri-pen…hey, haven't gotten
sick yet! Also, the toilets at these places are squatters; a hole in
the floor that you have to squat over. It's actually easy, not so bad.
On the steep climb to Ulleri we would have to step off to the side for
pack donkeys coming down with bells around their necks and goods
strapped on them! They don't stop for you! We also passed by several
people with guides and porters (we didn't get porters since we are only
here for four days). The porters are serious business! These small men
with bags and packs the size of them, strapped around their waists and
foreheads just barreling up and down the mountain. Sometimes they are
even in flip flops! I just can't believe it.
We made it to Ulleri in the early afternoon and had a bit of time to
rest and chill. The “tea houses” are not what I expected. They are like
small lodges, with an area for eating, an indoor fireplace, and rooms
that are separate. The rooms have two beds for us with firm mattresses
and blankets that don't look like they've ever been washed. We are so
glad we brought our sleeping liners!! At Ulleri we met several fun
people, one lady trekking alone from Switzerland, and a couple from the
UK who are our age and have been on the road for a couple months now.
They are traveling in Africa, India, Nepal, Asia, maybe even South
America then back to London! All over like 7 months. Insane, and
awesome if you ask me. They were working at an orphanage in Kathmandu
for a month before we met them. It's so fun to meet and connect with
people from around the world during our travels. Last night was nice -
us two couples as well as our two guides played a Nepalese card game
their guide taught us, had dinner around the fire and ended up going to
bed nice and early.
This morning we got an early start. The views in the morning are
absolutely spectacular, before the clouds roll in and block the high
peaks for the rest of the day. We had breakfast around 6:30 and then
headed out. The trek today was easier than yesterday. Still some pretty
good climbing, but not quite so steep for so long. Also, I think my body
is a little more acclimatized after sleeping for a night. Drew on the
other hand has come down with a respiratory infection, and felt like
today was harder just because his energy was low. Poor guy always gets
sick with a cold when we travel. He is convinced its from the plane
ride, he thinks he can't fly without ever getting sick. I told him he
should take airborne and wear a mask next time!!
We arrived in Ghorepani (2750 m) nice and early today, around 11:30
am. So, after a nice hot lunch (and hot shower!!!) we have the rest of
the day to relax and recoup. We are pretty tired, but in a good way.
Tomorrow morning we are waking up around 4:00 am to trek up to Poon
Hill, which is an amazing viewpoint of the annapurnas, and we will be
there for sunrise. Next we will come back, have breakfast here and be on
our way. The trek to Poon hill is straight up, so will be challenging,
but only for half an hour or 45 minutes and we will be there. Poon is
the highest point we will be at, which is 3200 meters. That's about
12,000 feet. High for a person like me, but you think about people who
climb Annapurna, which is 8,091 meters! Or Mt. Everest, I just can't
imagine. It would be awesome to take a plane ride above Everest, which
is something they offer to tourists in Nepal, but we just don't have
enough time. Nearly 3 weeks here as it feels too short! Until next
time.
We've been back from Nepal for over a month, but, as luck would
have it I am just now finding the time to finish up writing about our
trip!! I believe I left off with Poon Hill, and so that is where I
shall start.
That next morning we woke up bright and early at 4:30 am in the tea
house of Ghorepani. We bundled up, because it was dark, it was cold, and
we were headed up to Poon Hill, where we were told we would have a
breathtaking view of Annapurna and the surrounding peaks. Of course,
this is the whole reason people do this trek, is to go to Poon Hill, so
as we headed out that morning so did the rest of every trekker staying
in Ghorepani! I felt a little like soldiers, marching instep foot after
foot, going up stone step after stone step, about 45 minutes of
straight stairs in the dark, with only the beams of headlamps. Poon Hill
is 3200 meters elevation, and as soon as we made it to the top, and we
all stopped moving, I was very thankful for our jackets and hats and
scarves. What an awesome moment. Half an hour spent watching the
morning sun slowly light up these enormous mountains, standing right in
front of you like you could touch them. We were looking at Annapurna
south, Annapurna 1, machhapuchhre, Fish Tail, and one or two others I
forget! One of the most memorable moments of the trip, spent with our
new friends from the UK and from Switzerland!
With a quick stop for breakfast, we continued our trek, this time on
the descent. We probably spent most of that day trekking down (and a
little up) with lunch at Tadapani and then settling in at Ghandruk. This
of course is the sad part about journaling after a trip is over…I tend
to forget things like how many miles we went that day, or how long it
took. I do know, that going down a mountain side for two days straight
is really hard on your knees. My knees are still sore today…when I've
had them bent for too long, or try to run, they ache. That's probably
not a good thing…
Ghandruk felt the most poor/rural of the villages we stayed at.
Complete with hoards of grubby little children running up to you saying
the only English words they know “chocolate? Rupee please?” As
adorable as they are, and as sad as it is, I've been told these kids are
working for someone else, and whatever you give them won't go to them,
but will get re-sold by their parents or some other adult they're
working for. So…better to not encourage the begging. I also felt that
this last night we bonded with our guide Dipak the most. There were less
Trekkers staying at this place, and so less people to talk with and
share stories with. Dipak was a good guy. Told us about his family,
about tigers eating his goats, about wanting a better job and going to
college. It was nice to learn these things about him, I felt like he was
one of our buddies unwinding at the end of a long day.
On the fourth day we made it back to Nayapul, where we checked in
with the official trekking station that monitors who goes in and out,
and we had a meal at Dipak's sister's restaurant. Of course I had Dal
Bhat. The traditional Nepali meal might get a little tiring after days
of eating it, but looking back I wish I could have some right now! A
mound of rice, curry, veggies, and bean soup. It's all you need in life.
On the taxi ride back in to Pokhara, it was decided that since we had a
free afternoon, we should have Dipak show us a few of the highlights of
the city, and he was more than willing to do it. He took us first to
the Peace Pagoda (an all white Buddhist stupa) that sits up on a huge
hill and overlooks Pokhara. We had to take off our shoes to walk up the
steps, and had to walk clockwise only around it, like all stupas.
Next Dipak took us to a waterfall called David's waterfall. A pretty
impressive waterfall, named after a guy who died while bathing in it
with his wife back in the 50s or 60s. Next, we descended in to an
underground cave, that the waterfall pours in to. Now that was cool. I
have never been in a cave before. It was just as you'd think, however.
Dark, moist, echoey. Although this one had little shrines and Buddhist
statues that maybe ones in the US don't have ;).
Our last night in pokhara was spent well. Drew and I wandered the
main strip, having dinner at a restaurant with a cultural show, then
going to have dessert and (my first!) hookah at a different restaurant.
We could live like kings in Nepal…eating out every night for 3 or 4$ a
plate. But then again, I forget that as a nurse I would make $200 a
month in Nepal…
Next morning we board another tour bus at 0730, and spend 6 hours or
so bumping along through windy roads back to Kathmandu. This time, we
were in the very back of the bus! Squished at the back, where each hole
in the road is amplified and we literally jump about 6 inches off our
seat. We sat next to a couple guys from the UK, who talked 'futbol' with
drew most the ride. They were on their way to go white water rafting.
We arrive in Kathmandu, and alas, Sudip did not forget about us! He
was there to meet us, and escort us to our hotel. We stayed at the
Cosmic hotel in Thamel. Thamel is like the super busy touristy hub of
Kathmandu. Everything is walking distance, but the streets are so
discombobulated, that I'm surprised drew and I only got lost once! The
rest of that last day included a walking trip to Durbar square, one of
the most famous places of Kathmandu, with open street markets, detailed
old buildings shaped as you would think old Chinese buildings are
shaped. It was so strange to walk inside and on the steps of buildings
from the 1500's. Yes, history is pretty cool. In Durbar square, there is
a living goddess named Kumari. She is supposedly a reincarnated Hindu
goddess that lives in the body of a girl until she hits puberty, then
becomes another little girl. It's interesting how they choose her. They
subject her to staying alone in a dark room for a couple days, and the
viewing of sacrificing live animals, because the real goddess won't be
afraid of these things. She also has to correctly pick the garments of
the previous goddess. Anyways, she comes to her window for daily
“blessing of the people” so we got to see her. No pictures, of course.
She looked like a very bored young girl to me!
We walked out of Durbar square to have dinner at a place called OR2K.
A pretty trendy, hipster type place where you take your shoes off and
sit on the floor, and the lighting is a black light. The food was
absolutely amazing. Everything is super healthy and vegan. And
delicious! It was on the way back to our hotel from this dinner that we
got lost ;). But, we made it eventually.
Next morning we sadly packed up and had a last meal of momos outside
our hotel. I bought some final trinkets from street vendors, and we
loaded up our bags in to a tiny little taxi, and were off to the
international airport!! We had to wait for quite a while at this time,
because not only were we early but our plane ended up being delayed. And
now here comes one of the saddest parts of my story. The young girl
from Alaska, the blonde one I met on my plane ride to Nepal from
Singapore, was there again. I was surprised to see her, knowing she
planned to stay for a few months, volunteering and then trekking with
her dad. As soon as she saw me, a familiar face amongst strangers, she
broke down. She told me her dad died in a car crash and she just found
out that day. Her trip is cut short and she is flying on the first plane
home, through India. This has stuck with me. It's a moment where you're
not sure what to do; do I hug her, do I offer words of comfort, do I do
something of meaning and worthwhile for this girl I don't actually
know, and yet I'm the only person she does know. I think I did a little
bit of it all, but all I could see was a girl like my sister, who's
whole world has drastically been hurt, and shaken. I think of her now
and again, and want her to be ok. From there, to Kunming, China (a ten
hour layover where we tried sleeping at a closed Starbucks) to Shanghai,
to Vancouver, Canada. From Vancouver's airport we took a sky train to a
bus, then the bolt bus to the border, (where I felt like I was going
through customs for the billionth time) finally to Seattle. All in all, a
super long travel time. It takes a while to get to and from Nepal, this
I have learned. But, finishing up this journal and remembering all that
we saw and experienced makes my heart ache just a little bit for that
culture, those people, that landscape. Traveling does something to a
person. It might not register while you're there, it might happen once
you've returned home. But I know now that I want more of it, and need to
see more of this world before my time here is done.
28° Clear
2224 9th St SW, Puyallup, WA, United States
Some of the dates don't actually match the dates that they were written, but that is because Nepal is a day and a half ahead, so my phone switched back to our time once I returned home, and so did the date entries. Also, when it says 0 degrees N, 0 degrees E, it probably can't pick up our location!
